OSCAR BOYD
Staff writer

When planning a weekend in Tokyo, be ready to accept defeat: It is simply not possible to see everything.

Tokyo remains the largest city on the planet with a metropolitan area that is home to some 38 million people. It is defined by this vast populace, sprawling both horizontally and vertically in its efforts to accommodate its citizens and the establishments they frequent.

With a well-crafted itinerary, though, the weekend visitor can get a genuine feel for the city and begin to grasp the lay of the land. Tokyo is crowded, busy, hectic, yes. But it is also infectious and, by the end of a weekend here, you’ll struggle to tear yourself away.

Friday

Tranquility among madness — morning

Step off the plane and enter Tokyo. Endless opportunities abound and many flock straight for the frenetic bustle of Shibuya Crossing. But a far more appealing introduction to the city lies in the leafy grounds of Meiji Shrine (Yoyogikamizonocho 1-1, Shibuya-ku).

Dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, the shrine is one of the city’s most impressive examples of Shinto architecture and is surrounded by extensive grounds. For the full experience, pass through the shrine’s southern torii gate, a short walk from Harajuku Station, and walk the promenade to the main hall. 

Food for all occasions — lunch

There are dozens of excellent restaurants in the area between Harajuku and Omotesando. Start your trip the right way with a bowl of noodles from Afuri’s Harajuku ramen shop (1F Grandeforesta, Sendagaya 3-63-1, Shibuya-ku). This is not your bog-standard ramen; the shop serves its soup with a heavy infusion of yuzu citrus. The shop has a broad menu that includes a vegan ramen that changes with the season.

Closer to Omotesando Station is Commune 2nd (Minamiaoyama 3-13, Minato-ku), a collection of outdoor food stalls that caters to all tastes, from gyōza (dumplings) to burgers and vegetarian options. Choose the dish that piques your interest and head to the communal seating in the middle to mingle with the locals.

Architectural wanderings — afternoon

Tokyo’s architecture is famously inconsistent, but its best examples are world-beating and many of the city’s most inspired designs can be found along Omotesando-dori avenue.

The strip is home to an array of flagship stores for designer brands, and many have gone out of their way to make a statement. Spend a couple of hours wandering between the shops and work your way southeast toward the Kengo Kuma-designed Nezu Museum (Minamiaoyama 6-5-1, Minato-ku), home to one of the capital’s best collections of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art, a tranquil water garden (mind the mosquitoes) and a tea shop.

For high-concept coffee, stop off at Koffee Mameya (Jingumae 4-15-3, Shibuya-ku) or visit the classic Tsuta Coffee (Minamiaoyama 5-11-20, Minato-ku) for a simpler pick-me-up.

Into the alleyways — evening

Catch the train over to Shinjuku Station and, before heading to dinner, visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (Nishishinjuku 2-8-1, Shinjuku-ku). Home to the capital’s bureaucracy, the 243-meter-tall twin towers have free-to-access viewing platforms with citywide panoramas that extend to Mount Fuji on a clear day.

Once the sun sets and the city has turned on its lights, descend to the smoky, salaryman haven of Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane, but also known as “Piss Alley”; Nishishinjuku 1-2, Shinjuku-ku). The narrow streets host countless small restaurants that exist in perfect contrast to the concrete and glass superstructures of the rest of the area. The food — from yakitori to noodles — is cheap, delicious and abundant. 

More alcohol-orientated is nearby Golden Gai (Kabukicho 1-1-6, Shinjuku-ku). Close to 300 bars are packed into the tumbledown alleyways, each with a different theme, atmosphere and collection of drinks. These spaces are incredibly intimate, often with only six to eight seats, so be prepared to chat with the owner and other guests. Mind the cover charges, as these can rack up if you visit multiple spots.

Out on the town — after dark

If you’re not ready to end your evening there, head out to experience Tokyo’s nightlife. The tiny bar Bonobo (Jingumae 2-23-4, Shibuya-ku) is effortlessly cool, mixing a dance floor with a tatami-floored chill-out room, while the Shibuya area has local favorites such as Contact (B2F Shintaiso Bldg. No.4, Dogenzaka 2-10-12, Shibuya-ku) and  WWW (Rise Bldg., Udagawacho 13−17, Shibuya-ku). Roppongi’s 1 Oak Tokyo (Roppongi 5-10-25, Minato-ku) is modeled on the New York club of the same name and regularly features live acts and renowned DJs, though be aware of its gender-based pricing and strict dress code.