OSCAR BOYD
Staff writer

Little-known outside Japan, Shizuoka Prefecture hugs the coast to the south of Mount Fuji. Home to the Tokyo getaway of Izu, the prefecture is known as the starting point for three of the main hiking trails up Fuji, which forms the greater part of Shizuoka’s northeastern boundary line, and for the volume of its tea production — some 40 percent of Japan’s green tea is grown here.

Though its attractions are spread far and wide, Shizuoka is full of undiscovered gems secreted away among the foothills of Fuji and the Minami Alps. The prefecture is best explored by car, as public transport outside of the larger cities and towns is limited. Our jumping off point is the city of Hamamatsu, in the far west of the prefecture.

Friday

Not quite the Namib — early morning

The Nakatajima Sand Dunes on Hamamatsu’s south coast might be more appropriately named the Nakatajima Sand Dune (Nakatajimacho 1313, Minami-ku, Hamamatsu) — it really is just one dune, and then a few hillocks of sand and scrub.

Still, it’s worth a visit for being one of Japan’s three largest dunes (the country doesn’t have many), and to spend an hour or so at the beach. Just across the road from the dune is Fix Surf Shop (Nakatajimacho 1669-1, Minami-ku, Hamamatsu), where you can rent boards if the surf is riding high.

A general’s stronghold — late morning

The main keep of Hamamatsu Castle (Motoshirocho 100-2, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu; ¥200 entry to the keep) is still standing — albeit a reconstruction, since the original was destroyed in air raids in World War II. That being said, any kind of keep is somewhat of a rarity in Japan after the Meiji government came to power in 1868 and decreed that the nation’s castles should be torn down. 

The castle is notable for being the home castle of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the 17th-century general who played a great part in forging a unified Japan. Panoramic views of Hamamatsu are to be had from the viewing deck on the top floor of the keep, which is also home to a collection of samurai armor, old rifles and other pre-Meiji Era (1868-1912) weaponry.

Lake-side relaxation — afternoon

Lake Hamana sits at the western edge of Hamamatsu and is used to cultivate unagi (eel), nori seaweed and Chinese soft-shelled turtles. Around its edge runs a cycling course and multiple shops from which you can rent bicycles.

Start at Kanzanji Onsen, a cluster of onsen bath houses, hotels and the small Kanzanji temple (Kanzanjicho 2231, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu). There are a number of unagi restaurants in the town serving eel fresh from the lake; look out for the hiragana “う” character and take your pick.

A taste of Brazil — evening

One of the highest concentrations of Portuguese speakers in Japan is located in Hamamatsu, which has a large population of Brazilians and Nikkei (Brazilians of Japanese descent). The city is home to multiple establishments catering to this population, including Brazilian hairdressers, botox salons, travel agents and, of course, restaurants.

Head to Servitu (Sunayamacho 323-5, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu) — an import store and buffet-diner — for churrasco (grilled meat) and an all-you-can-eat course, or Gordinhus (Sumiyoshi 2-1-15, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu), another family-run barbeque joint. Both places are better at dinner, with a wider and fresher menu. Servitu doesn’t run its grill unless you are in a group of five or more and call a day ahead to reserve. 

For late morning acai bowls the next day, pop into Acai Ya (Kajimachi 2-9, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu), a Brazilian acai smoothie/bowl shop founded in the city. It’s not Brazilian, but across the road from Acai Ya, Petit Ami Cafe (Kajimachi 1-60, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu) serves good coffee and great crepes.