OSCAR BOYD
Staff writer

Since 2016, Kumamoto has been associated more with the earthquake and aftershocks that damaged much of the city and prefecture than as a travel destination. Though reconstruction is complete in most areas, there is still evidence of damage, most notably to Kumamoto Castle, a prefectural icon whose walls and main keep are still undergoing extensive repairs. 

As far as cities go, Kumamoto is nothing extraordinary, though there is plenty still worth visiting. The surrounding countryside, however, is magnificent. The eastern part of the prefecture is dominated by Mount Aso, Japan’s largest active volcano, and is home to numerous onsen (hot-spring baths). To the west is the coast, with views across the Ariake Sea toward Nagasaki Prefecture and the fearsome Mount Unzen, another of the region’s active volcanoes.

Kumamoto Prefecture is large and much of it is difficult to access by public transport. Though most of the locations in this article can, eventually, be reached by a combination of trains and buses, the itinerary is best followed by car, starting from the cities of Fukuoka, Oita or Kumamoto.

Friday

Out on the soba road — lunch

Twenty minutes outside of Kurokawa Onsen is the Soba Kaido road, nicknamed for the noodle shops positioned every 100 meters or so along its course. Kagoan (Akababa 2862-3, Minamioguni, Aso) is a 100-year-old farmhouse that has been refurbished as a soba restaurant; its mossy roof and thick wooden beams hint at its age. The noodles, when they come, are sublime: The earthy taste of buckwheat defines each mouthful, complemented by a rich soy-based soup and a generous side of maitake mushrooms, lightly fried in a crisp batter.

Let out your inner nudist — afternoon

Twenty-nine ryokan inns line the Kuro River to make up the bulk of Kurokawa Onsen (Manganji 6594-3, Minamioguni, Aso). Though it has its roots in the Edo Period (1603-1868) as a rest stop for daimyo, it was not until the 1960s that the village became well-known to the public.

Despite recent growth, the town maintains a charm that effuses throughout the buildings and narrow alleyways that run down the steep banks to the river. It feels old, and has escaped much of the over-enthusiastic concrete landscaping that is present elsewhere in Japan. From the town’s information center you can buy nyūtō tegata, onsen-hopping passes that allow the wearer access to three different outdoor baths at any of the 24 participating ryokan for just ¥1,300. 

Tea and pastries — afternoon

Choux cream pastries are the raison d’etre at Patisserie Roku (Manganji 6610, Minamioguni, Aso), a cornershop bakery at the center of Kurokawa Onsen. Each cream puff is baked in-house and then filled with sweet cream-custard to order. Potted caramel puddings and roll cakes are also made in-house using milk from Jersey cows reared in the prefecture’s Aso region.

Wine and dine at a ryokan — evening

As a rule of thumb, the further downstream you are in Kurokawa Onsen, the nicer the facilities. Ryokan Sanga (Manganji 6961-1, Minamioguni, Aso), which is a short drive out of the main town, is the finest of all, with sublime outdoor baths surrounded by lush forest. It serves an excellent kaiseki (traditional Japanese multicourse) dinner at tables secreted away in the wooden alcoves of its dining hall. Enjoy the meal and excellent selection of local drinks before turning in for an exceptionally peaceful night’s sleep.